Wave Priority?
As the smog layers slipped away on my journey northward, I wondered what new surf
adventures awaited me behind the Redwood Curtain. I had heard of wondrous surf spots
where the only crowd that existed was the on that arrived in your vehicle or hiked in from
miles away. Crowds were few and the barrels were numerous. There was never any
discussion of a hassle for a wave.
So many surf sessions I remember were typified by the eleven surfers who were closer to
the peak than myself. Now the rule I grew up with (which was also slated in NSSA,
CSA, and WSA events) stated that the surfer closest to the peak was the surfer who had
priority. That was a pretty obvious rule to follow with at most a six-man heat. It was
even easier in a man-on-man heat. Well, we don't always live in a perfect world with
only six total surfers competing for a peak with numerous waves.
Now, the crowds of Humboldt County don't even compare to those of other spots in
California. I often thought that I would never again have to deal with hassling for a wave
when I moved up north. But, I have noticed an interesting phenomena occurring in the
cold, sharkey waters of our local surf spots.
On small days, I usually ride my 6'3" (which is considered a longer board by some) and
notice that the guys on longboards paddle right past me on their way to the peak. Not just
on occasion, but every time I am in the water. Of course we all understand the physics
involved with various lengths of boards and its relation to how easy or hard it can be to
catch a wave. I don't mind sharing waves with other surfers, but being cut out by three
long-boarders, which equates to thirty feet of foam in front of me, seems a bit ridiculous
at times.
On the big, juicy days at the jetty or the harbor entrance, I ride my 7'4" or my 8'0" and
feel well gunned. But, again, guys on 8'6" or 9'+ boards will paddle past me right to the
peak. Yes, this becomes critical when it is over 10 feet (by the backs). Being cut out and
having 3 tons of water spin you to the bottom is no fun.
Well, what is the rule for wave priority in Humboldt County? Just sitting at the
peak will not determine the priority as surfers paddle right past and sit deeper and deeper.
A few factors come to mind with what other surfers might be thinking as they paddle past
me, "I have lived in the area for 20 years," "I've been here longer than those surfers," "I
am older than them," "Bigger board=more waves," " I am so cool, I get whatever waves I
want," "Short boarders suck," "I have more dogs on the beach than that guy," "What are
you going to do about it if I cut you out?" or "I'll just pretend I don't see anybody."
I think there are plenty of waves out there for all of use. Simple consideration and
awareness will make more surfers happy than not. You could even smile and say "HI!"
the next time you are in the line up.
-TSP
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